Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer™

I use CPES™ any time I need to make a wood more solid without going all the way to stabilizing the wood with a product like Cactus Juice™. I find it easy to apply to the inside of vases, goblets, and other items that will have liquid contact. While you have to allow quite a bit of time for CPES™ to fully cure, I find the results to be well worth the wait.

Oak & Teak Epoxy™

When I have need of epoxy I reach for either Mercury Adhesives or Smith’s Oak and Teak Epoxy™. If I am joining something other than wood, filling a gap, making a molded piece, or working with domestic, non-oily woods (Poplar, Cherry, Hickory, Ash, etc.) I generally reach for one of the Mercury epoxies. If, however I am working with an oily domestic, particularly White Oak, or with any of the various exotics that are quite oily (Teak, Bubinga, any of the Rosewoods, Ebony, etc.) I reach for the Smith’s Oak & Teak™. I find that it works well with any of the exotics. Perhaps the most demanding application I have had to date is edge joining two quarter-inch thick pieces of Amboyna Burl along a join with no mechanical assistance over a span of roughly fourteen inches. This was for the top of a book stand used to photograph antiquarian volumes. After nearly eight years every-day use the stand is holding up just fine. The epoxy is flexible in addition to being very strong and, as a result is more forgiving of wood movement.